Author Archives: Citizen Taco

Short Stay Itinerary: Berkeley & Oakland, CA

Is it the current recession, the rent prices in San Francisco, the newfound hipster clout? For whatever reason, the East Bay has become a major food destination lately. Sure, it’s always had great international cuisine, and Chez Panisse invented the locavore craze 30 years before the term “locavore” existed, but for a long time it was the only game in town. Now Shattuck is the “Gourmet Ghetto,” iconized by the endless line itching for pizza at Cheese Board Collective. On 4th Street, O Chame serves inventive, California-inspired Japanese cuisine (sushi is for wimps) down the street from Tacubaya‘s refined take on regional Mexican. Oakland, formerly a holding zone for restaurants that spilled over from Berkeley, a no-man’s land buoyed by a lone upscale wolf (BayWolf restaurant), now has nationally-renowed pizza (Pizzaiolo), sandwiches (Bakesale Betty) and coffee (Blue Bottle). And in the last two years, a number of small, ambitious restaurants have popped up all over Oakland that have become must-visit meals, worth the trek from across the water. Gather, Commis, and Camino have all garnered favorable reviews from national publications, and that’s just the beginning. Below are my top picks for a short stay in the East Bay. More recommendations and a full guide are forthcoming.

SHORT STAY ITINERARY:

LUNCH: Chez Panisse, Tacubaya, O Chame, Gather, Tamarindo, Jon’s Street Eats, Bakesale Betty

DINNER: Gather, Chez Panisse, Commis, Camino, Encuentro, O Chame, eVe, Tamarindo

PIZZA: Pizzaiolo, Cheese Board Collective, Emilia’s Pizzeria

COFFEE: Blue Bottle, Bica Coffeehouse, Local 123, Modern Coffee, Subrosa, Remedy Coffee, Cole Coffee, Coffee Mill

SWEETS: Ici Ice Cream, Michael Mischer Chocolates, Gelato Naia, Bittersweet Cafe

DRINKS: The Trappist, Pyramid Brewery & Alehouse, Luka’s Taproom, Commonwealth Cafe & Pub

You can find my East Bay Food Map here.

New York City Brunch Map

Finding a great brunch in New York can prove harder than one would expect. After years of searching, I’ve found few places that serve brunch with the focus and innovation of Tasty & Sons or Broder in Portland, Pasqual’s in Santa Fe, or Bar Jules in San Francisco. The only New York brunch that stands in the same league might be Buttermilk Channel in Carroll Gardens, but unless you live in the neighborhood and are willing to stand the wait (my advice: arrive 10-15 minutes before opening), a brunch at Buttermilk could eat up half your Sunday. But fear not, there are still plenty of options, many of them worth a visit. Use this map to find my nearest recommendations, or consult the list below (in order of my preference).


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Breakfast & Brunch

MANHATTAN (Weekdays): **The Breslin, Locanda Verde, Penelope, Northern Spy Food Co., Cookshop, Shopsin’s (closed Mondays), Good Enough to Eat, Balthazar, Clinton St. Baking Co., Pastis, La Taza De Oro, Tulcingo del Valle, Morandi, Hecho en Dumbo, Cafe Orlin, Cafe Cluny, Barney Greengrass, Russ & Daughters

MANHATTAN (Weekends): Five Points, Public, Blue Ribbon Bakery, Back Forty, Colicchio & Sons, Bar Boulud, DBGB, Westville, Little Giant, Tia Pol, Telepan, Minetta Tavern, The Breslin, Locanda Verde, Prune, ABC Kitchen, Penelope, Cookshop, Northern Spy Food Co., Stanton Social, Barrio Chino, Macondo, Good Enough to Eat, Balthazar, Clinton St. Baking Co., Pastis, Shopsin’s (Saturdays only), La Taza de Oro (Saturdays only), Tulcingo del Valle, Morandi, Hecho en Dumbo, Cafe Orlin, Cafe Cluny, Hundred Acres, Ouest, Dovetail, Mesa Grill, Barney Greengrass, Russ & Daughters

BROOKLYN (Weekdays): Prime Meats, Iris Cafe, Fort Defiance, Egg, The Farm on Adderley, The General Greene

BROOKLYN (Weekends): **Buttermilk Channel, Char No. 4, Fanny, Flatbush Farm, No. 7, Stone Park Cafe, Chavella’s, Luz Restaurant, Prime Meats, Fort Defiance, Rose Water, iCi, Egg, Iris Cafe, Henry Public, The General Greene, The Farm on Adderley, Roberta’s

For more New York City dining recommendations, see my NYC Food Guide & Maps.

California: Central Coast Food Map

The Pacific Coast Highway has long been one of the great scenic drives in America. Its most famous (San Simeon, Big Sur, Santa Cruz, Monterey), most frequented (by Japanese tourists at least) stretch runs along the central coast of California from just north of Santa Barbara to Pacifica on the southern tip of San Francisco, where Highway 101 splits off and sneaks inland, abandoning Highway 1 at the crumbling coastline. If you make this drive, or end up stranded along its route for a period, don’t miss some of the great food that populates the area. What better to pair with views of the expansive ocean horizon than one of Big Sur Bakery‘s world-class pizzas, or pulled pork from the smoker at Gorilla Barbeque (if they haven’t sold out)? Whether its handmade tofu at Akaoni in Carmel, or handmade tortillas and organic Mexican cuisine at the Cafe Campesino food stand in Santa Cruz, this region has plenty of extraordinary food that gets passed over by most guidebooks. Here, in map form, are my favorites:


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From the Vault: North Carolina Food Map

Last week I drove from Nashville to Boston on an all-too-short road trip. I camped out briefly in DC (tacos, Qualia Coffee) and Philly (Zahav, Ultimo Coffee) before continuing on toward my final destination. I had originally planned for a leisurely cruise, prancing through the Appalachians and across the smokey terrain of North Carolina. That smoke coming, of course, from the char pits and black ovens of the state’s famous barbecue joints. I’ve still yet to visit anywhere outside of Asheville, but I made up this food map in anticipation of said journey, which will for now remain in the future tense. Extensive research yielded this selection of gustatory landmarks, which I hope to one day put to good use…


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Street Food: Clover Food Lab in Boston

Street Food: Clover Food Lab in Boston

Posted by Citizen Taco, August 11, 2010 at 11:15 AM

Six months ago Clover Food Lab was still something of a secret. The food cart, which opened quietly in 2008, still served a small selection of breakfast and lunch items to a crowd of mostly MIT students and professors, continuing a longstanding tradition of lunchtime food trucks at the university. The chef-owners were ambitious, conceiving a seasonal vegetarian menu that could be served within minutes after ordering, where no item topped the five dollar mark.

That meant granola, oatmeal and popover’s in the morning; sandwiches and salads in the afternoon. As their audience grew, they hired more cooks and found ways to maximize efficiency and minimize wait times, including taking advance orders via email.

Sounds pretty simple, until you taste the chickpea-fritter pita sandwich, raw summer squash salad, or just-cut rosemary French fries that make you believe in the idea of fast food again. Drinks are stellar too: cucumber-lime-aleppo agua fresca, blueberry lemonade, hibiscus tea and made-to-order drip coffee. From the first time I ordered a chickpea fritter “boat”—fresh chickpea-flour falafel balls over hummus, shredded carrots, red onions, purple cabbage, tomato, cucumber, and crunchy lettuce—Clover became one of my favorite food carts anywhere.

This summer, the Lab took the next step in their plan to create an empire, expanding the fleet (a second cart now parks across from South Station) and the hours (both carts stay open til 7 p.m.). A recent visit to the downtown cart confirmed that this is nothing but good news—even at its peak, with the line topping 20 people, it was fewer than 15 minutes before I devoured a marinated mushroom salad and some gluten-free chickpea fritters.

The best lunch at MIT has become the best lunch in downtown Boston, and this Fall Clover plans to open their first restaurant as well. Get excited.

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FoodHeads, Home of Outstanding Soups and the Best Fish Tacos in Austin

FoodHeads, Home of Outstanding Soups and the Best Fish Tacos in Austin

Posted by Citizen Taco, July 28, 2010 at 11:30 AM

A good lunch is hard to find, a good lunch restaurant even harder, where the menu is so vast and even-keeled that only a fool would insist on maintaining a “usual.” Amid the current profusion of food carts and eateries that specialize in one or two items, FoodHeads boasts a long list of sandwiches that verge on the artisanal—think grilled squash and fresh mozzarella with cilantro pesto and blackberry balsamic vinaigrette—without being pretentious.

Eight-plus years of wheat-intolerance have left me mostly undesirous of glutinous creations, but the sight of a sandwich at FoodHeads often sets off pangs of lust. Fortunately they have more than just sandwiches, including superlative soups, salads, and a number of daily specials. FoodHeads also happens to serve the best fish tacos in Austin, which I confess to ordering more often than not. Wrapped in two toasted corn tortillas, the lightly-seasoned grilled tilapia filets have a firm but flaky texture and a whole lot of flavor. Then come the fixings: fresh cabbage, tomatoes, white onion, avocado, cilantro, blended homemade pico de gallo, and a side of creamy carrot and cabbage slaw.

Your two-taco order will be gone before you know it, at which point I recommend one of FoodHeads’ outstanding soups. The chicken tortilla is one of the best in town (ordering the small size would be torture) and I love their stellar cold concoctions likewatermelon gazpacho and chilled cucumber mango.

Located in a converted house north of the UT campus, FoodHeads offers ample indoor and outdoor seating with mismatched tables and chairs that make it feel like the large living room it once was. If they didn’t close their doors at 4 p.m., the crowd of devoted regulars would probably stay here all night.

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Nashville, Tennessee: Gourmet Popsicles at Las Paletas

Nashville, Tennessee: Gourmet Popsicles at Las Paletas

Posted by Citizen Taco, July 22, 2010 at 2:00 PM

On Monday, the new Food Network show Kid In A Candy Store featured a gourmet popsicle company that makes its home near the Belmont University campus in Nashville, Tennessee. If you didn’t get a chance to see the show or if you retain a skeptical opinion of the Food Network’s reportage, let me vouch for them and say this place is the real deal.

Aptly named, Las Paletas makes the best gourmet paletas I’ve tried yet—lightyears ahead of NYC’s People Pops (though I do love their shaved ice) and narrowly beating Austin’s GoodPop. A riff on the angular Mexican popsicles that usually feature corn syrup or cane juice and loads of artificial coloring, these icy treats forgo all that filth in favor of pure, streamlined recipes that highlight natural fruit flavors.

One staffer at Las Paletas says their secret is picking fruits at the right time. And because they’re using sugar mainly for texture, rather than to mask inferior flavors, the paletas aren’t overly hard and icy, nor artificially gummy and sweet. They remain delicious and compelling the whole way through.

Many establishments around town sell paletas from Las Paletas, but nowhere has as extensive a selection as the home location on 12th Ave South. They make fruit-only paletas, creamy paletas, and “other” paletas that break the mold, like hibiscus (neither a fruit nor a cream) and blueberry yogurt. I can’t speak for the creamy paletas (lactose-intolerant) but the fruit paletas rock my world.

The honeydew manages to capture that melon perfectly—I even prefer it to the fruit itself. For some paletas they eschew a clean, uniform composition and leave in the characteristics of the ingredients, such as the blueberry skins and pineapple meat in the paleta that combines those two fruits.

A visit to Las Paletas has become part of my routine when I go to Nashville (as it should be for you) and on more than one occasion they’ve made the perfect finale to a cross-town taco tour.

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Fuel City: The Best Taco in Texas?

Fuel City: The Best Taco in Texas?

Posted by Citizen Taco, July 14, 2010 at 5:15 PM

Some four years ago in the December 2006 issue of Texas Monthly, the publication’s food editor Patricia Sharpe had the gumption to crown the best taco in Texas.

Along with her five anonymous food writer cohorts on “Team Taco,” they scoured the state for three months before declaring a winner. Though time has rendered Sharpe’s list of the 63 best Texas tacos almost obsolete (considering restaurant closings and the ebb of chefs and menus), I suspect the list was a foolhardy enterprise from the outset.

Certain omissions are unforgivable—the barbacoa at Gerardo’s Drive-In (Houston, opened 1977) and the birria at El Borrego de Oro (Austin, opened 1995)—but everyone will find something to grumble over.

I can’t really argue with most of the list, partly because it gets many places right, and mostly because I only relocated to central Texas in early 2009. Maybe the brisket taco at Matt’s El Rancho deserved such accolades back then. (Not today.)

Conceivably the picadillo at the Fuel City gas station taco window in Dallas really was the best taco in Texas four years ago. When I tried that star creation on two occasions in April of this year, it tasted no different than countless other picadillos I’ve had. Ground beef, seasoned potato, mild red sauce. So what?

Looking back at Sharpe’s article, she never really explains why the picadillo tops the other tacos at Fuel City, let alone the proceeding 63 on the list. She backwardly compliments the green chile salsa, calling it “superfluous and irresistible,” and praises the “amazingly tender” beef fajita.

But most of the write-up concerns itself with the kooky gas station setting, and the fact of its round-the-clock service. All the excitement seems to have muddied Team Taco’s judgment.

Fuel City’s barbacoa does hit the spot, but it still falls short of the aforementioned Gerardo’s, among others. When I visited Fuel City in April, and again this past weekend, I found their barbacoa taco to be far and away the best—dripping with its own fatty juices and textured like fine chopped beef, with a sweet, chocolatey aftertaste. The small white-corn tortillas are thin and slightly greasy, soft without breaking apart. The salsas suffice, but Sharpe nailed it in calling them superfluous.

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First Look at Uchi’s Sibling Restaurant Uchiko in Austin, Texas (Serious Eats)

First Look at Uchi’s Sibling Restaurant Uchiko in Austin, Texas

Posted by Citizen Taco, July 6, 2010 at 4:00 PM

Uchi could easily be called the best restaurant in Austin. Ambitious, inventive, quietly stylish, it holds itself to a higher standard than the rest of this city’s low-key food scene, and should even be considered one of the country’s great dining destinations. So when Uchi announced plans for a sister restaurant Uchiko over a year ago, people got excited, then waited freaking forever.

Speculation became a popular pastime, such that until I set foot in the new space last week, I expected something smaller than Uchi in price, menu size, and square footage (uchi is Japanese for “home,” ko means “child of”). Instead I found an even larger dining space and a 56-item menu—composed mainly of dishes first created and tested at the mothership—that mirrors that restaurant’s dining experience with uncanny precision.

The price is still steep for this town, but worth its weight in smiles. This is happy food, infectious, even giddy. The invisible barriers between parties at the sushi bar seemed to drop away at both of my meals. Don’t be surprised when your neighbors start getting familiar, trading opinions, then ogling your newly-arrived dishes with shared excitement.

Certain kinks still need work. The presentation of the hiramasa tataki changed from one night to the next, as did the texture of the gyutan beef tongue nigiri. I found the wagyu momo too chewy, and the soft tofu agemono is on hiatus because of “consistency problems.” But even if Uchiko doesn’t improve at all from where it stands now—though it most certainly will—I can safely say it deserves a seat beside (and not beneath) Uchi’s throne.

After a weeks-long soft opening, the restaurant officially opens today.

Check out this slideshow for a preview of my favorite dishes »

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Austin Taco All-Stars: Tacos La Flor (Serious Eats)

Austin Taco All-Stars: Tacos La Flor

Posted by Citizen Taco, June 30, 2010 at 5:45 PM

With an almost unquantifiable number of taco trucks and Mexican restaurants in this town, I hesitate to name any of them the “best in Austin,” but the little blue trailer that is Tacos La Flor comes as any to winning that designation.

La Flor camps out beside a nondescript convenience store on a transitional stretch of South First Street, some ten to twelve minutes from downtown by car. Guarded by two warped wooden picnic tables and a four-legged umbrella, La Flor offers little in the way of dine-in atmosphere, catering mostly to drivers en route.

What puts La Flor above all the other taco poseurs are their homemade tortillas, hands down the best in the city(Full disclosure: I can only speak for the corn tortillas, in part because that’s the way a real taco should be ordered, but mostly because of my wheat-intolerance). The corn tortillas at La Flor have an unparalleled strength and a powerful, ever-present flavor, pleasantly reminiscent of warm pita bread. They also bear a miraculous crispy rim, almost like a tiny pizza crust. As you bite into your taco you might think you’ve hit a tortilla chip, but no, it’s just the crunch of the hardened circumference.

La Flor does five types of beef tacos (six before they nixed the B.B.Q.): bistec, slightly fatty and marinated in tomato sauce with onions; desebrada, shredded; guisada, stewed; picadillo, sloppy joe-style ground beef with squares of stewed potato; and fajita, char-grilled with onions. Both the beef and chicken fajita come out charred and a little crunchy, making them the best of the bunch. The carnitas are good too, not quite as crispy or fatty as I usually like, but still very flavorful and served in generous portions. Chicharrones (fried pork rinds) are moist and doughy, a primarily textural experience that’s more like eating torn bits of salty, fatty fried bread than the skin of a pig.

But La Flor’s best creation has to be their simple bean-and-egg taco, my favorite breakfast taco in the breakfast taco capitol of the U.S. Anchored by a hearty corn tortilla, the egg is fresh-cracked, barely scrambled and fried into a thin disc, and the pinto beans are only halfway to refried. Other options include bacon, ham or sausage, grilled potatoes, and fresh nopales (cactus). And when it comes to salsa, La Flor removes any choice in the matter and makes only one: a mild peppery red tomato mixture that works perfectly on every taco.

I recommend lubricating your meal with a Mexican Coke, Topo Chico or six pack of Negra Modelo from the convenience store. And be sure to plan the trip to La Flor in advance. It’s out of the way even for most Austin residents, and like a number of the best Mexican food spots in town (Juan in a Million, Tacodeli, El Meson) they close early.

Tacos La Flor

4901 South 1st Street, Austin TX 78745
512-417-4214
7 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily

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