Category Archives: Houston, TX

Homemade tofu is hard to find these days. Diners habituated to the taste of packaged tofu (and that’s pretty much all of us) will be surprised to find a whole new world in the homemade experience. I vividly remember tasting it several times at Akaoni in Carmel, CA, and alongside those memories are new visions of the tofu soup I recently experienced at Jang Guem. As soon as you step into this Korean restaurant nestled in the sea of New Chinatown strip malls (onto a floor made of hundreds of small, spliced wood cuts) you know it’s the real deal. The tofu soup comes bubbling hot with a raw egg on the side (which you crack into the soup and stir around as the bubbles slow to a simmer). You can ask the waitstaff for other recommendations, but don’t expect much of an answer. Service is decidedly hands-off here.

RECS: You won’t have to order much, as every meal is accompanied by the traditional Ban Chan—small dishes of kimchi, cucumbers, fish cakes and other delights. Everything on the menu seems to be pretty good, but the tofu soups are an absolute must.

Why isn’t Feast the most popular restaurant in Houston? It’s certainly the best. So what’s holding everyone back? Well, many potential diners will be instantly turned off by Feast’s fundamental emphasis on meat (they take the “whole animal” philosophy to its extreme). Many will be turned off by the prices (all dinner entrees top the $20 mark) and still others will be frustrated by the pace of the meal, complaining that you can’t count on completing lunch in under an hour. But come on! Deal with it! First of all, yes, strict vegetarians will only find one or two suitable dishes on the menu… if they’re lucky. But pescatarians and meat-sceptics will find a variety of stellar fish dishes (e.g. scallop pie, whole octopus, smoked mackerel) and vegetables abound on almost every plate. Each ingredient is as fresh as can be, with all the meat sourced from sustainable local farms. And as for the price, well, the Friday/Saturday prix fixe lunch for $12.95 is hands-down the best lunch deal I’ve ever seen. Period. And it’s served by a caring, passionate waitstaff in an old, converted three-story house? Be sure to make a reservation for this one.

RECS: The menu changes daily (see the latest on their website) according to the whims of the chefs. Try whatever your appetite calls out for, and be prepared for something completely unique and jaw-droppingly delicious.