Citizen Taco

It’s that time of year again. The longest, hottest, craziest Winter arts event is back, which means a much-needed update to my SXSW Essential Guide. Odd Duck is on hiatus, Counter Culture is movin’ on up to the East Side, there’s a host of new bars and restaurants, and Franklin BBQ has longer wait times than ever. It’s gonna be the best South By yet…

For the complete 2012 SXSW Food & Drink Guide, head to our SXSW Page.

Forget the restaurants, the coffee shops, the shopping destinations, the museums. You can find that stuff elsewhere. But no city in America rivals the nightlife in New York. Drinks International‘s 2011 list of the World’s 50 Best Bars included seven in NYC, with PDT clocking in at Numero Uno. America’s mixology trend has found its nexus here, led by revered bars like Death & Co., Pegu Club and Milk & Honey. The aforementioned PDT (“Please Don’t Tell”) has even written the definitive cocktail book for the millenial generation, codifying the speakeasy revival and influencing a league of martini-makers across the nation.

So where to begin? You can certainly go the route of targeting destination bars like the above, but be prepared to wait hours for admission if you haven’t snagged a reservation in advance. Fortunately these places often cluster together to form alcoholic constellations all over the city, so you can kill some time sipping Six Point Ales or mai tais around the corner ’til that artisan cocktail purveyor calls your cell. The majority occupy the East Village, West Village, the L.E.S. and Williamsburg, but even Long Island City and Brooklyn’s Cobble Hill harbor top-flight bartenders (at Dutch Kills and Clover Club respectively). If beer is more your thing, try dba, Spuyten Duyvil, or Radegast, and for great wines at sweet prices start with the exhaustive menu at Terroir (tip: the 5-6pm happy hour brings $6 wines and a free glass of sherry). The whole scene is a bit of a mess, so I keep the following NYC Nightlife Map on my phone at all times. If you’re thinking Gucci and Manolo Blahnik, I probably can’t help you (when I really want to people-watch I head straight to the Ace Hotel Lobby Bar). If you’re in the market for tasty digestifs in unordinary digs, here’s your guide:

NYC Nightlife Map:

How is it that I’d never spent more than one night in Philadelphia until now? It’s the fifth largest city in America but it never seemed particularly welcoming to visitors. How wrong I was! It only took a few days of exploration to get below the gritty, no-bullshit facade and find all the cool spots. I’d already been to standouts Zahav and Amada on previous trips, but in the past few years  their chef-owners (Michael Solomonov and Jose Garces, respectively) have become serious players, dictating the present and future of Philly’s food scene. Solomonov now has Federal Donuts and Percy St. BBQ (both must-visits) and Garces has too many restaurants to name in one breath. And while I never got a chance to try Horizons before it closed, the vegan husband-and-wife duo behind it have opened a new restaurant called Vedge where I had one of the best meals so far this year.

If my wallet had been a bit deeper I’d have hit up Vetri, Talula’s Garden, and Koo Zee Doo, but I was content to do an espresso tour instead. Turns out Philly has a white-hot coffee community, led by the small crews at Shot Tower, Ultimo, Elixr and Odd Fellows. They even have two mobile shot-pullers–HubBub and Rival Bros–and nothing goes better with a La Colombe cappuccino than some seasonal sorbetto at Capogiro Gelato, my new sweet obsession. But Philly is perhaps, above all, a drinking town. Franklin Mortgage and The Ranstead Room can throw down with the best mixologists of NYC, but it’s bar-restaurants like The Farmer’s Cabinet that really blew me away (next time I’ll make it to Fishtown for drinks at Kraftwork and Frankford Hall). Anyone looking for an alternative to New York’s hyper-kinetic restaurant buzz machine should get their butts down here asap.

Philadelphia Food Map:

The best food & top restaurants in Philadelphia & environs…

NOTE: All establishments are worth a trip. ** = best choices for 1-2 day stay.

American & Upscale

MID-RANGE: **Zahav, **Vedge, Amada, Barbuzzo, Ela, Meme, Tinto, Percy St. BBQ, Farmer’s Cabinet, Kanella, Garces Trading Company, Stateside, Alla Spina, Bar Ferdinand, JG Domestic, Village Whiskey, Oyster House, The Dandelion, Bistro La Minette, Ulivo

UPSCALE: **Vetri, **Talula’s Garden, **Koo Zee Doo, Marigold Kitchen, Osteria, Amis, Chifa, Tashan, Fish, Bibou, White Dog Cafe, Majolica, The Farm and the Fisherman, Paloma, Pumpkin, Lolita, Cochon, Southwark, Tria

Morning

COFFEE: **Shot Tower Coffee, **Ultimo Coffee, **Elixr Coffee, Odd Fellows Coffee, HubBub Coffee Truck, La Colombe Torrefaction, OCF Coffee House,  Bodhi Coffee, Rival Bros. Coffee Truck, Chapterhouse Cafe

DAILY BREAKFAST: **Sabrina’s Cafe, **Cafe Estelle, Morning Glory, B2

WEEKEND-ONLY BRUNCH: **Marigold Kitchen, Kanella, Meme, Southwark, Bar Ferdinand

Drinks

BEER: **Monk’s Cafe, **Frankford Hall Beer Garden, **Farmer’s Cabinet, South Philadelphia Taproom, Kraftwork, Yards Brewery, Victory Brewery, Pub & Kitchen, Resurrection Ale House, Standard Tap, Kennett, Dock St. Brewing Co, Sassafras, Khyper Pass Pub, Pub on Passyunk, Memphis Taproom, Green Rock Tavern, Grey Lodge Pub, Barcade

COCKTAILS: **Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co, **Farmer’s Cabinet, **Ranstead Room, Southwark, National Mechanics Bar, Trestle Inn, Village Whiskey, Graffiti Bar

FUNKY: North Bowl, Kraftwork, Barcade

Miscellany

SWEETS: **Capogiro Gelato, **Federal Donuts, Sweet Freedom Bakery (gluten-free), Sugar Philly Truck, Franklin Fountain

FOOD TRUCKS: Sugar Philly, Guapo’s Tacos, Honest Tom’s, Magic Carpet Foods, HubBub Coffee, Rival Bros. Coffee, Pure Fare

MEXICAN/LATIN: El Rey, Lolita, Xochitl, Distrito, Taqueria Los Taquitos de Puebla, Tacos Don Memo, Taco Loco, Taqueria Veracruzana

JAPANESE: Izumi, Zama, Shiroi Hana, Tokio, Morimoto

SOUTH ASIAN: Hardena, Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House, Pho 75, Vietnam, Banana Leaf, Penang Malaysian, Nhu Y,  Desi Chaat House, Philadelphia Chutney Company

BBQ & SOUTHERN: Percy St. BBQ, Carmen’s Country Kitchen, Sweet Lucy’s Smoke House

PIZZA: Pizzeria Stella, Zavino, Tacconelli’s Pizza

AFRICAN: Kaffa Crossing, Abyssinia

VEGGIE/VEGAN: **Vedge

GROCERY: Italian Market, Reading Terminal Market

It had been three and a half years since my first time in Asheville and it hadn’t left my mind since. I remembered the warm-hearted and welcoming vibe, the salmon enchiladas at Salsa’s, grocery shopping at French Broad Co-Op, and stockpiling enough music at Harvest Records to carry me all the way to California. I’m happy to report that Harvest is still kicking and still one of the best record stores in America, and Asheville has only grown more vibrant and sophisticated in its foodism. Standouts include the Admiral and Curate, two stellar restaurants that seem plucked from Portland OR’s culinary cloth, plus Indian street food at Chai Pani, breakfasts at Sunny Point and espresso at Dripolator. If you’re not already a chocolate fiend, the expertly-curated selection at French Broad Chocolate Lounge will convert you to the religion of cacao.

Asheville might be small but its quirky personality comes out in its venues and gathering spaces–music shows at The Grey Eagle and Orange Peel to beer + movies at the Asheville Pizza & Brewing Company‘s “Brew-N-View” and coffee in Double D’s converted double-decker. How did this tiny, isolated city get so frickin’ cool? It might trace back to the 1940′s and 50′s artistic experiments of John Cage, Merce Cunningham, Allan Kaprow, and Buckminster Fuller at nearby Black Mountain College, but the combination of the Appalachian mountain air, the profusion of art galleries, the flowing beer taps and the tasty food keep Asheville at the top of my list for travel destinations.

Asheville Food Map:

Asheville

NOTE: All establishments are worth a trip. ** = best choices for 1-2 day stay.

Mid-Range & Upscale: **The Admiral, **Curate, Table, Tupelo Honey, Nona Mia Italian Kitchen, Posana Cafe, Cucina 24, The Market Place

International: **Mela Indian, **Chai Pani, Salsa’s, Heiwa Shokudo, Boca, Limones, Chorizo, Tomato Cocina Latina

Casual & Takeout: White Duck Taco Shop, Homegrown, Twelve Bones Smokehouse, Cucina 24 Deli

Breakfast & Brunch: Sunny Point Cafe, Tupelo Honey, Over Easy Cafe, Early Girl Eatery, Boca (weekends), Limones (sundays)

Drinks & Small Bites: 5 Walnut St Wine Bar, Sazerac, Battery Park Book Exchange & Champagne Bar, Desoto Lounge, The Bywater

Beer: Thirsty Monk, Wedge Brewing Co, Green Man Brewing Co, Lexington Avenue Brewery, Highland Brewing Co, Asheville Pizza & Brewing

Coffee, Chocolate, Sweets: **French Broad Chocolate Lounge, **Dripolator Coffee Bar, Izzy’s, Waking Life Espresso, Double D’s, West End Bakery

Veggie & Vegan: Laughing Seed Cafe, Rosetta’s Kitchen, Plant

Grocery: French Broad Co-Op, Earth Fare, Greenlife/Whole Foods, WNC Farmer’s Market, Hops & Vines

Music, Film, Books: Harvest Records, The Grey Eagle, The Orange Peel, Asheville Pizza & Brewing (“Brew-N-View”), Cinebarre, Carolina Cinemas, Malaprop’s Bookstore, Downtown Books & News, Battery Park Book Exchange

I had the pleasure of spending Christmas in Charleston this year, with a few extra days tacked on in Savannah to boot. I’d been to both cities before, but hadn’t had the opportunity to dig in and explore their restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and barbecue outposts. Four days in Charleston allowed me to try damn near everything in town: two visits to Hope & Union Coffee, two meals at Husk, one underwhelming dinner at McCrady’s, one delicious dinner at FIG, a lovely lazy lunch at Two Boroughs Larder, and not nearly enough snacking at my favorite place in town–the newly-minted Butcher & Bee. Serving sandwiches and sundries from 11-3 and 11-3 (why aren’t there more restos out there doing lunch & late night??), Butcher & Bee wins for its simple but outstanding food and for making everyone feel like the little shop is their home away from home. Rounding out the best of Charleston’s new school, Bin 152 welcomed us for wine and charcuterie after we checked into our hotel at 1am, and the next night we slugged some mighty fine cocktails at The Gin Joint. I only wish we could have stayed one more day for the opening of The Grocery, a much-anticipated new locavore spot that I can’t wait to try next time.

On subsequent trips I’ll also devote more attention to old-school Charleston–I hear the best lowcountry cuisine is at Martha Lou’s, Bertha’s, and Hannibal’s Kitchen. I did carve out time for trips to Bowen Island Restaurant (a must-visit for oyster roasts) and even a 90-minute drive to Scott’s BBQ in Hemingway. Many food writers consider Scott’s some of the best BBQ in South Carolina (see this profile from John T.) but I was unimpressed by its mounds of pulled pork. Maybe it was an off day, perhaps I was grumpy from the long drive and expected too much, or maybe Carolina BBQ just isn’t my thing (my meat palate came of age in the Texas Hill Country after all), but Scott’s seems more interesting for its middle-of-nowhere roadside digs than for its simmering hogs. On the way back to Charleston I tried to double up at Sweatman’s BBQ in Holly Hill, but I arrived to find the gates closed and no explanation–thus are the hazards of culinary tourism on holidays.

Savannah offered only a fraction of Charleston’s charms, and save the ambitious farm-to-table menu at Local 11 Ten, the spooky city seems stuck in the food of its past. I did enjoy noshing at Back in the Day Bakery, stocking up at Brighter Day Natural Foods, and sampling truffles late-night at Lulu’s Chocolate Bar, but the true pleasure of Savannah is in wandering its tree-lined squares and cemeteries, all dripping in Spanish moss. The city’s most storied restaurant is Elizabeth on 37th, and its most popular is The Olde Pink House, but I deigned to part with the precious cash or precious time (respectively) required at each destination. I preffered to preserve my wallet’s contents until I arrived at my next point of interest, Asheville NC…

Charleston & Savannah Food Map:

The best food, top restaurants, & my favorite spots in Charleston, Savannah & environs…

NOTE: All establishments are worth a trip. ** = best choices for 1-2 day stay.

Charleston

Mid-Range: **Butcher & Bee, **Two Boroughs Larder, Hominy Grill, Closed for Business, Laura Albert’s Tasteful Options, Triangle Char & Bar

Upscale: **Husk, **FIG, McCrady’s, Trattoria Lucca, The Macintosh, Magnolia’s, Cypress, Wild Olive Cucina Italiana, Slightly North of Broad, Charleston Grill, Blossom, Fish, Lana, Oak Steakhouse, High Cotton, Tristan, La Fourchette, 39 Rue du Jean

Old School Diners, Delis & Dives: **Bowen Island Restaurant, Martha Lou’s, Bertha’s, Hannibal’s Kitchen, Jestine’s Kitchen

New School Diners, Delis & Dives: Dellz Deli, The Bagel Shop, Big Gun Burgers, Sesame Burgers

Beer & Wine: **Bin 152, Closed for Business, Tattooed Moose, Smokey Oak Taproom, Charleston Beer Works, Laura Albert’s Tasteful Options, Charleston Pour House, Oak Barrel Tavern

Cocktails: **The Gin Joint, **The Bar at Husk, Cocktail Club, The Belmont, Voodoo Tiki Bar

Espresso: **Hope & Union Coffee, **Caviar & Bananas, The Bagel Shop, Alchemy Coffee

Pizza: Monza, Extra Virgin Oven

Bakeries & Sweets: Macaroon Boutique, WildFlour Pastry

Grocery: Marion Square Farmer’s Market, Charleston Beer Exchange, Avondale Wine & Cheese, Goat Sheep Cow, Remedy Market, Queen Street Market, Caviar & Bananas, Ted’s Butcher Block, Earth Fare

Savannah

Mid-Range & Upscale: **Local 11 Ten, Elizabeth on 37th, The Olde Pink House, Noble Fare, Circa 1875, Leoci’s Trattoria, Gryphon Tea Room, Planter’s Tavern, Casbah

Diners & Dives: Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room, Angel’s BBQ, Wiley’s Championship BBQ, Wall’s BBQ, Desposito’s Seafood,

Casual & Takeout: Green Truck Neighborhood Pub, Starland Cafe, Sisters of the New South, Papillote, Zunzi’s Take Out, Al Salaam Deli

Coffee, Pastries, Sweets & Grocery: Back in the Day Bakery, Brighter Day Natural Foods, Lulu’s Chocolate Bar, The Sentient Bean, Gallery Espresso, FORM

Outside Savannah & Charleston

Mt. Pleasant, SC: Red Drum Gastropub, Coleman Public House, Graze, Sprout

Holly Hill, SC: **Sweatman’s BBQ

Hemingway, SC: Scott’s BBQ

Brunswick, GA: Hostel in the Forest, Georgia Pig

What can be said about New York’s third wave coffee scene that hasn’t been recounted already? It’s well-trodden terrain, perhaps most elegantly and extensively by the NYTimes’ Oliver Strand (who’s reportedly hard at work on a study of third wavers nationwide, coming soon to a Kindle near you?). So where do I put in my two pennies? My typical first stop in NYC is, ironically, Stumptown at the Ace Hotel, two institutions transplanted to great acclaim from Portland OR. After that I start on the list of NY’s home-growners, and leading the pack is Jack’s Coffee in the West Village. Next I hit Ninth Street Espresso in the East Village or Chelsea Market, and if I can stomach a third I end at Third Rail Coffee in NYU territory. Of course wherever you find yourself in this city, from Grand Central to Park Slope, there’s a La Marzocco just around the corner. Here, in map form, are my picks: