Citizen Taco

I had the pleasure of spending Christmas in Charleston this year, with a few extra days tacked on in Savannah to boot. I’d been to both cities before, but hadn’t had the opportunity to dig in and explore their restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and barbecue outposts. Four days in Charleston allowed me to try damn near everything in town: two visits to Hope & Union Coffee, two meals at Husk, one underwhelming dinner at McCrady’s, one delicious dinner at FIG, a lovely lazy lunch at Two Boroughs Larder, and not nearly enough snacking at my favorite place in town–the newly-minted Butcher & Bee. Serving sandwiches and sundries from 11-3 and 11-3 (why aren’t there more restos out there doing lunch & late night??), Butcher & Bee wins for its simple but outstanding food and for making everyone feel like the little shop is their home away from home. Rounding out the best of Charleston’s new school, Bin 152 welcomed us for wine and charcuterie after we checked into our hotel at 1am, and the next night we slugged some mighty fine cocktails at The Gin Joint. I only wish we could have stayed one more day for the opening of The Grocery, a much-anticipated new locavore spot that I can’t wait to try next time.

On subsequent trips I’ll also devote more attention to old-school Charleston–I hear the best lowcountry cuisine is at Martha Lou’s, Bertha’s, and Hannibal’s Kitchen. I did carve out time for trips to Bowen Island Restaurant (a must-visit for oyster roasts) and even a 90-minute drive to Scott’s BBQ in Hemingway. Many food writers consider Scott’s some of the best BBQ in South Carolina (see this profile from John T.) but I was unimpressed by its mounds of pulled pork. Maybe it was an off day, perhaps I was grumpy from the long drive and expected too much, or maybe Carolina BBQ just isn’t my thing (my meat palate came of age in the Texas Hill Country after all), but Scott’s seems more interesting for its middle-of-nowhere roadside digs than for its simmering hogs. On the way back to Charleston I tried to double up at Sweatman’s BBQ in Holly Hill, but I arrived to find the gates closed and no explanation–thus are the hazards of culinary tourism on holidays.

Savannah offered only a fraction of Charleston’s charms, and save the ambitious farm-to-table menu at Local 11 Ten, the spooky city seems stuck in the food of its past. I did enjoy noshing at Back in the Day Bakery, stocking up at Brighter Day Natural Foods, and sampling truffles late-night at Lulu’s Chocolate Bar, but the true pleasure of Savannah is in wandering its tree-lined squares and cemeteries, all dripping in Spanish moss. The city’s most storied restaurant is Elizabeth on 37th, and its most popular is The Olde Pink House, but I deigned to part with the precious cash or precious time (respectively) required at each destination. I preffered to preserve my wallet’s contents until I arrived at my next point of interest, Asheville NC…

Charleston & Savannah Food Map:

The best food, top restaurants, & my favorite spots in Charleston, Savannah & environs…

NOTE: All establishments are worth a trip. ** = best choices for 1-2 day stay.

Charleston

Mid-Range: **Butcher & Bee, **Two Boroughs Larder, Hominy Grill, Closed for Business, Laura Albert’s Tasteful Options, Triangle Char & Bar

Upscale: **Husk, **FIG, McCrady’s, Trattoria Lucca, The Macintosh, Magnolia’s, Cypress, Wild Olive Cucina Italiana, Slightly North of Broad, Charleston Grill, Blossom, Fish, Lana, Oak Steakhouse, High Cotton, Tristan, La Fourchette, 39 Rue du Jean

Old School Diners, Delis & Dives: **Bowen Island Restaurant, Martha Lou’s, Bertha’s, Hannibal’s Kitchen, Jestine’s Kitchen

New School Diners, Delis & Dives: Dellz Deli, The Bagel Shop, Big Gun Burgers, Sesame Burgers

Beer & Wine: **Bin 152, Closed for Business, Tattooed Moose, Smokey Oak Taproom, Charleston Beer Works, Laura Albert’s Tasteful Options, Charleston Pour House, Oak Barrel Tavern

Cocktails: **The Gin Joint, **The Bar at Husk, Cocktail Club, The Belmont, Voodoo Tiki Bar

Espresso: **Hope & Union Coffee, **Caviar & Bananas, The Bagel Shop, Alchemy Coffee

Pizza: Monza, Extra Virgin Oven

Bakeries & Sweets: Macaroon Boutique, WildFlour Pastry

Grocery: Marion Square Farmer’s Market, Charleston Beer Exchange, Avondale Wine & Cheese, Goat Sheep Cow, Remedy Market, Queen Street Market, Caviar & Bananas, Ted’s Butcher Block, Earth Fare

Savannah

Mid-Range & Upscale: **Local 11 Ten, Elizabeth on 37th, The Olde Pink House, Noble Fare, Circa 1875, Leoci’s Trattoria, Gryphon Tea Room, Planter’s Tavern, Casbah

Diners & Dives: Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room, Angel’s BBQ, Wiley’s Championship BBQ, Wall’s BBQ, Desposito’s Seafood,

Casual & Takeout: Green Truck Neighborhood Pub, Starland Cafe, Sisters of the New South, Papillote, Zunzi’s Take Out, Al Salaam Deli

Coffee, Pastries, Sweets & Grocery: Back in the Day Bakery, Brighter Day Natural Foods, Lulu’s Chocolate Bar, The Sentient Bean, Gallery Espresso, FORM

Outside Savannah & Charleston

Mt. Pleasant, SC: Red Drum Gastropub, Coleman Public House, Graze, Sprout

Holly Hill, SC: **Sweatman’s BBQ

Hemingway, SC: Scott’s BBQ

Brunswick, GA: Hostel in the Forest, Georgia Pig

What can be said about New York’s third wave coffee scene that hasn’t been recounted already? It’s well-trodden terrain, perhaps most elegantly and extensively by the NYTimes’ Oliver Strand (who’s reportedly hard at work on a study of third wavers nationwide, coming soon to a Kindle near you?). So where do I put in my two pennies? My typical first stop in NYC is, ironically, Stumptown at the Ace Hotel, two institutions transplanted to great acclaim from Portland OR. After that I start on the list of NY’s home-growners, and leading the pack is Jack’s Coffee in the West Village. Next I hit Ninth Street Espresso in the East Village or Chelsea Market, and if I can stomach a third I end at Third Rail Coffee in NYU territory. Of course wherever you find yourself in this city, from Grand Central to Park Slope, there’s a La Marzocco just around the corner. Here, in map form, are my picks:

Is there any city more associated with coffee culture than Portland OR? Seattle perhaps, or for others NYC (more on that next time). But as far as per capita consumption of micro-roasted espressos, Portland just can’t be beat. Stumptown Coffee Roasters have become synonymous with the taste of PDX, but a phalanx of scrappy cafes has emerged in recent years to caffeinate those who think Stumptown is getting too big too fast. And some of them are, dare I say it, even better than the big S (right now I’m digging Courier Coffee the most). So where to begin? Well, after Stumptown and Courier, there’s Sterling, Coava, Ristretto, Extracto, Water Avenue, Barista, and that’s just the top of the ever-expanding heap. Hopefully you’ve got a little time to try them all. For ease of navigation, here’s a map of all the best.

In between putting the finishing touches on their new book, my friends over at Beer Craft sent me this map from the vault at 7 x 7. It’s pretty good for a start, but any SF espresso map without Sightglass and Coffee Bar is, in my book, plainly useless. By now it’s a foregone conclusion that in its so-called Third Wave, coffee has been elevated to high art status and touted by hipsters as the best “artisanal,” “small-batch,” “hyper-local,” “single origin” drug you can buy for an Abe Lincoln. I’ll admit to using some hoity verbiage in my own shade-roasted reviews, but you’ve gotta show the people you know the lingo, right? I appreciate a good pull as much as the next snob and have, on occasion, emitted a small noise upon discovering a new La Marzocco Mistral in my midst, but keeping up with coffee culture can feel like a full-time job. (Before your next outing, brush up on your vocab with this indispensable NY Times glossary). Every major city in the country now has its legion of self-appointed espresso experts, each pledging fidelity to their unparalleled favorite cup. I say information equals power; take all the recommendations with a pinch of salt and find out for yourself what makes that tongue tingle. Below you’ll find my own SF Espresso Map with the usual words of encouragement: go forth and enjoy!

Last month I officially lamented the state of brunch in New York City, at least in comparison to other major cities, if not empirically. Apparently the same goes for Los Angeles, another megalopolis with a dearth of morning delights. Skip the power brunch scene (which has even less appeal than the snooty, overpriced white linen establishments of the East) and head for the places on this newly minted breakfast & brunch map of the LA area. Each neighborhood seems to have something going for it, but if you’ve only got one weekend in town consider trekking to Gjelina, Canele or The Bazaar by Jose Andres (if you’ve got the dinero). On weekdays, try Square One, LA Mill, or Cora’s Coffee Shoppe, and if none of those appeal, consider a good old fashioned Mexican breakfast at El Huarachito (mmmm, huaraches).

Enjoy.

Is it the current recession, the rent prices in San Francisco, the newfound hipster clout? For whatever reason, the East Bay has become a major food destination lately. Sure, it’s always had great international cuisine, and Chez Panisse invented the locavore craze 30 years before the term “locavore” existed, but for a long time it was the only game in town. Now Shattuck is the “Gourmet Ghetto,” iconized by the endless line itching for pizza at Cheese Board Collective. On 4th Street, O Chame serves inventive, California-inspired Japanese cuisine (sushi is for wimps) down the street from Tacubaya‘s refined take on regional Mexican. Oakland, formerly a holding zone for restaurants that spilled over from Berkeley, a no-man’s land buoyed by a lone upscale wolf (BayWolf restaurant), now has nationally-renowed pizza (Pizzaiolo), sandwiches (Bakesale Betty) and coffee (Blue Bottle). And in the last two years, a number of small, ambitious restaurants have popped up all over Oakland that have become must-visit meals, worth the trek from across the water. Gather, Commis, and Camino have all garnered favorable reviews from national publications, and that’s just the beginning. Below are my top picks for a short stay in the East Bay. More recommendations and a full guide are forthcoming.

SHORT STAY ITINERARY:

LUNCH: Chez Panisse, Tacubaya, O Chame, Gather, Tamarindo, Jon’s Street Eats, Bakesale Betty

DINNER: Gather, Chez Panisse, Commis, Camino, Encuentro, O Chame, eVe, Tamarindo

PIZZA: Pizzaiolo, Cheese Board Collective, Emilia’s Pizzeria

COFFEE: Blue Bottle, Bica Coffeehouse, Local 123, Modern Coffee, Subrosa, Remedy Coffee, Cole Coffee, Coffee Mill

SWEETS: Ici Ice Cream, Michael Mischer Chocolates, Gelato Naia, Bittersweet Cafe

DRINKS: The Trappist, Pyramid Brewery & Alehouse, Luka’s Taproom, Commonwealth Cafe & Pub

You can find my East Bay Food Map here.

Finding a great brunch in New York can prove harder than one would expect. After years of searching, I’ve found few places that serve brunch with the focus and innovation of Tasty & Sons or Broder in Portland, Pasqual’s in Santa Fe, or Bar Jules in San Francisco. The only New York brunch that stands in the same league might be Buttermilk Channel in Carroll Gardens, but unless you live in the neighborhood and are willing to stand the wait (my advice: arrive 10-15 minutes before opening), a brunch at Buttermilk could eat up half your Sunday. But fear not, there are still plenty of options, many of them worth a visit. Use this map to find my nearest recommendations, or consult the list below (in order of my preference).

Breakfast & Brunch

MANHATTAN (Weekdays): **The Breslin, Locanda Verde, Penelope, Northern Spy Food Co., Cookshop, Shopsin’s (closed Mondays), Good Enough to Eat, Balthazar, Clinton St. Baking Co., Pastis, La Taza De Oro, Tulcingo del Valle, Morandi, Hecho en Dumbo, Cafe Orlin, Cafe Cluny, Barney Greengrass, Russ & Daughters

MANHATTAN (Weekends): Five Points, Public, Blue Ribbon Bakery, Back Forty, Colicchio & Sons, Bar Boulud, DBGB, Westville, Little Giant, Tia Pol, Telepan, Minetta Tavern, The Breslin, Locanda Verde, Prune, ABC Kitchen, Penelope, Cookshop, Northern Spy Food Co., Stanton Social, Barrio Chino, Macondo, Good Enough to Eat, Balthazar, Clinton St. Baking Co., Pastis, Shopsin’s (Saturdays only), La Taza de Oro (Saturdays only), Tulcingo del Valle, Morandi, Hecho en Dumbo, Cafe Orlin, Cafe Cluny, Hundred Acres, Ouest, Dovetail, Mesa Grill, Barney Greengrass, Russ & Daughters

BROOKLYN (Weekdays): Prime Meats, Iris Cafe, Fort Defiance, Egg, The Farm on Adderley, The General Greene

BROOKLYN (Weekends): **Buttermilk Channel, Char No. 4, Fanny, Flatbush Farm, No. 7, Stone Park Cafe, Chavella’s, Luz Restaurant, Prime Meats, Fort Defiance, Rose Water, iCi, Egg, Iris Cafe, Henry Public, The General Greene, The Farm on Adderley, Roberta’s

For more New York City dining recommendations, see my NYC Food Guide & Maps.

The Pacific Coast Highway has long been one of the great scenic drives in America. Its most famous (San Simeon, Big Sur, Santa Cruz, Monterey), most frequented (by Japanese tourists at least) stretch runs along the central coast of California from just north of Santa Barbara to Pacifica on the southern tip of San Francisco, where Highway 101 splits off and sneaks inland, abandoning Highway 1 at the crumbling coastline. If you make this drive, or end up stranded along its route for a period, don’t miss some of the great food that populates the area. What better to pair with views of the expansive ocean horizon than one of Big Sur Bakery‘s world-class pizzas, or pulled pork from the smoker at Gorilla Barbeque (if they haven’t sold out)? Whether its handmade tofu at Akaoni in Carmel, or handmade tortillas and organic Mexican cuisine at the Cafe Campesino food stand in Santa Cruz, this region has plenty of extraordinary food that gets passed over by most guidebooks. Here, in map form, are my favorites:

View Larger Map

Last week I drove from Nashville to Boston on an all-too-short road trip. I camped out briefly in DC (tacos, Qualia Coffee) and Philly (Zahav, Ultimo Coffee) before continuing on toward my final destination. I had originally planned for a leisurely cruise, prancing through the Appalachians and across the smokey terrain of North Carolina. That smoke coming, of course, from the char pits and black ovens of the state’s famous barbecue joints. I’ve still yet to visit anywhere outside of Asheville, but I made up this food map in anticipation of said journey, which will for now remain in the future tense. Extensive research yielded this selection of gustatory landmarks, which I hope to one day put to good use…